Arajilla Retreat resort and Capella Lodge are the two top-end resorts. Both are small, with around a dozen rooms each, and there are also guesthouses and self-catering cottages.
One of Arajilla’s major attractions is the Arajilla Ayurvedic Spa, which offers a range of facials and massages based on ancient Indian principles. An abhyanga massage “using hot ayurda oil to soothe, calm and nurture the body” left me feeling clear of mind and detoxified, if still a little stiff of leg, after a walk to one of the island’s many summits proved rather more strenuous than I had anticipated.
I would have been far wiser to opt for a quiet walk along some of the most beautiful and deserted beaches to be found anywhere in Australia, although many adventurous holidaymakers tackle the 875-metre Mount Gower, which is regarded as one of the world’s best day walks.
The pleasures here are very simple ones; as is the journey, a 90-minute direct Qantas Link flight from Sydney or Brisbane, or an even shorter skip across the pond from Port Macquarie.
From Arajilla, just 50 metres above the rock pools and golden sands of Old Settlement Beach, we took advantage of the complimentary free bicycles to pedal our way to Ned’s Beach where we threw stale bread into the water - much to the delight of several dozen kingfish, multi-coloured wrasse and slippery mullet, several of which were surprisingly large and extremely tame.
Ned’s Beach - which was named Australia’s cleanest in 2004 - is also a great spot for a pre-dinner drink.
There are only a handful of vehicles on Lord Howe and the speed limit of 25kph is enforced by the one policeman who also fulfils the roles of customs agent, immigration officer and harbour pilot. That said you may still have to get out of your car to shoo somnambulant mutton birds off the road – their favoured resting place because the tarmac is warm.
Arajilla Retreat, our base, is a leafy, comfortable, up-market resort that recently reopened after undergoing refurbishments. There are three styles of suites, offering one and two bedrooms, while tariffs include three meals a day and pre-dinner drinks. The food is nicely presented by competent and friendly staff.
Standout dishes during our stay included prawn and fish cakes with cucumber daikon salad and ginger dipping sauce; truffled mushroom risotto with rosemary and crumbly cheddar and kingfish in kaffir lime broth with snake beans and fresh coriander. Wines are selected by Nick Butler of Orange’s Union Bank Wine Store (think Tim Adams, Majella and Heartland). There’s also that essential for visitors from the inner west: a good coffee machine.
During the day, most guests choose to walk, cycle, play golf or bowls, or head off on boating excursions to fish for kingfish or garfish, snorkelling with turtles or exploring coral reefs in glass bottomed boats.
Light picnic lunches and barbecue packs are available from Arajilla for those wanting to explore the island at a leisurely pace. Snorkeling and light fishing gear are free to guests, although many prefer to simply sit under a Kentia or Banyan tree and enjoy the sub-tropical ambience.
Settled in 1838, Lord Howe has been a whaling port, palm plantation and, since the 1940s – when guests arrived on Catalina flying boats from Rose Bay – a holiday retreat for a lucky few who want to both wind back the clock and wind down.
THE FACTS QantasLink has regular air services to Lord Howe Island from Sydney, Brisbane and Port Macquarie. Phone 13 13 13 or visit www.qantas.com.au.
Arajilla Retreat offers a range of packages and three levels of accommodation from $520 per night per person all inclusive. Children under six are not accepted. Phone 1800 063 928, or see www.arajilla.com.au.
For further information phone 1800 240 937 or 13 20 77, or see www.lordhoweisland.info and www.visitnsw.com.au.
