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Settled by the Romans in 43 BC, Lyon is bisected by the Rhone and Saône Rivers which converge to the south of the historic city centre forming a peninsula known as the Presqu'île.

The original medieval city (Vieux Lyon) was built on the west bank of the Saône at the foot of the Fourvière hill. Today this region is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site. In the old town you’ll still find some surviving silk workshops, an industry for which the city was once renowned.

But for many visitors, culture comes a distant second behind gastronomy as a reason for visiting. The legendary chef Paul Bocuse, who has several restaurants in town and was named chef of the 20^th century, is just one of the many famous Lyonnais pan handlers. But it is not all haute cuisine. Lyon is dotted with small, friendly restaurants serving traditional local dishes and wines, which are known as bouchons.

The food in these lively establishments is usually red-meat dominated; think charcuterie dishes like rosette Lyonnais and saucisson de Lyon or hearty fare like andouilletes (tripe sausages often smothered in mustard), the traditional chicken casserole known as coq au vin, tripe cooked with onions or the small pike mousses known as quenelles.

Cervelle de canut is a cheese spread much beloved by the locals with curd mixed with chopped herbs, shallots, salt, pepper, olive oil and vinegar.

On my most recent visit to one of my favourite French cities, we dined at Cafe des Federations, a lively, jovial little spot where you drink local wine from small carafe bottles known as “pots” and a massive platter of charcuterie is slapped down in front of you on arrival.

This is the real deal: checked tablecloths, closely-packed tables and sausages hanging from the ceiling. You eat what you are told here, although you do get a choice of hearty mains; dishes like black pudding with apple, calf head with ravigote sauce, cake of chicken livers (and delicious it was, too) and stew of pork cheeks. The owner here is a friend of Sydney chef Guillaume Brahimi, so it might pay to name drop a little. Set menus here start from just 19 euros.

Other similarly-styled bouchons include La Meunière; Daniel et Denise, Chez Hugon and Le Poêlon d'Or, as well as the character-filled Restaurant Le Musèe. 

More sophisticated (and expensive) dining choices include the venerable Le Mère Brazier, where Bocuse did his apprenticeship, Auberge de I’lle, La Rotonde Leon de Lyon and Le Maison Clovis. In all, the Lyon region has 14 Michelin-starred establishments

The Auberge du Pont de Collonges, super chef Bocuse’s main restaurant is out of town on the banks of the Saone. The only time I have eaten here I was disappointed – but I was dining as part of a large group. Far more affordable, and enjoyable, are his small brasseries dotted around town: Le Sud, Bistro de l’Est, Le Nord, L’Ouest etc.  

Plenty to see

Among the “must see” Lyon sights are: The Roman ruins on the hillside near the Fourviere Basilica, St John Cathedral with elements from the 13^th, 14^th and 15^th centuries; Old Lyon, the Medieval and Renaissance quarter, with its quant cobbled streets, shops, and dining and the majestic Place Bellecour, one of the largest town squares in Europe and a great spot for people watching.

The 19^th-centruy Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière and the neighbouring metallic tower, a mini Eiffel Tower, overlook the city from the hillside while the Fine Arts Museum is one of the largest in France. Also don’t miss the former Roman amphitheatre.

At the foot of the Croix-Rousse hill in the old quarter, take a stroll through the many “traboules”, passageways that traverse the old silk workers’ quarter. For those who love shopping, major stores including Printemps and FNAC can be found in the Bellecour district with the Carre d’Or, or golden square, home to no fewer than 70 luxury brands. The 19^th-century Passage de l‘Argue is a step back in time with old fashioned millinery stores and cutlers.

Lyon is a terrific walking city but the integrated public transport system comprising metro, tramways and buses is extremely easy to navigate. You’ll need to catch a tram or bus to visit the Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, the city’s best covered market.

This is paradise for anyone who loves gourmet goodies. Among the stalls not to miss are Mère Richard, a decadent cheese shop, Sibilia, a stunning charcuterie, and the chocolates and sweets at Sève.

If you are into food it is a delight to spend a few hours here tasting the many local specialities from the 56 merchants, many of whom also have small restaurants or cafés attached to their stalls. An alternative is the Saint-Antoine Market, a food market along the banks of the River Saône from Tuesday-Sunday. There is also another, smaller, market in the Croix-Rousse quarter, also from Tuesday-Sunday.  

If you want to get out of town, the Kanpai group offers a range of half- and full-day wine tours to Beaujolais and the northern Rhone. See www.kanpai-tourisme.com. And if you don’t have time to do some tasting you can pick up some well-chosen bottles at the Cave Valmy, probably the best wine store in town.

THE FACTS

Getting there: Etihad Airways flies 24 times weekly from Australia (Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne)  to Abu Dhabi, with seamless connections to Paris and other European capitals. www.etihad.com.

Getting around: You don’t need to drive on the wrong side of the road. France has 31,000km of railroad tracks that cover virtually the entire country. Choices include the ultra-fast TVG trains, as well as scenic and regional services. Regular France Rail passes start at $263 for three-day pass and $340 for a five-day pass – and premium passes are also available. Visit Rail Europe www.raileurope.com.au or contact your local travel agent. Rail Europe can organise train passes and tickets in France, Italy, the UK, Switzerland, Spain, and across the continent.

Lyon has two major railway stations: Lyon Part-Dieu, which was built to accommodate the TGV services and has become the principal railway station for long-distance trains; and Lyon Perrache, which is an older station that primarily serves regional rail services.

Where to stay: Hotel Le Royal Lyon, 20 Place Bellecour 69002 Lyon. www.lyonhotel-leroyal.com has just 74 rooms, is luxurious and superbly situated on the city’s major square, just a short walk from both the Saône and the Rhone. Other good options include the mid-price Globe & Cecil Hotel and Hotel des Artistes, which is well situated near bars and restaurants but in a calm setting.

For more information: www.lyon-france.com.